Mallorca

Der Garten des Tramuntana Gebirges und die Bucht von Cala Tuent

Die Suche nach einem Ferienhaus  in Europa für zwei Personen war schwieriger als gedacht und so wollte es der Zufall, dass ich  „Ca N´Aina“ fand. Daraufhin buchten wir auf Mallorca, die Insel mit dem Ruf nach schönen Wanderwegen, prächtigen Luxus und natürlich dem Hotspot für alle Mädelsausflüge und Jungesellenabschiede. Jede/r, mit der/m wir über Mallorca im Allgemeinen geredet haben, kennt sich aus und alle Menschen hatten eine Meinung mit unendlich viele Empfehlungen. Es ist wie es ist, dachte ich und hatte mir während unserer Urlaubsvorbereitungen vorgenommen, keinen Ratschlag mehr einzuholen. Nun mache ich es kurz, denn wir haben ein Idyll abseits des Tourismusschwarms gefunden. So weit weg vom üblichen Malle-Tourismus und so unwegig, dass sich hierher nie ein Kurzurlauber verlieren würde. Wer in Liebe verreisen will, Erholung und Ruhe für das Nonplusultra im Urlaub hält, dem sag ich: „Auf nach Cala Tuent!“.

Willkommen in Cala Tuent

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aufgeregt und angekommen

An einem Montag, Ende Mai 2018, landeten wir am Flughafen von Palma di Mallorca. Unser Leihwagen wartete direkt dort und wir machten uns auf, um Wein im Weingut „Tianna Negre“ im Ort „Binissalem“ zu besorgen. Glücklicherweise lag das Weingut in Richtung Reiseziel. Weiter zum nächsten Einkaufscenter und schon war das Auto vollgestopft mit flüssigen und festen Nahrungsmitteln. Sieben Nächte werden wir in unserem Ferienhaus wohnen und waren in Sachen Nahrung und Getränke auf uns allein gestellt, denn der nächste Supermarkt war über eine halbe Stunde Fahrzeit entfernt. Ein einsames Leben ohne ausreichend Wein und Salsiccia: Unvorstellbar!

Der Flieger landete früh und wir machten einen Abstecher nach „Inca“. Inca ist für das Lederhandwerk bekannt und ein hübscher kleiner Ort mit schönem Dorfplatz. Als wir gegen Mittag ankamen, ging es entspannt zu.  Nach einem Kaffee fuhren wir auf der Landstrasse weiter nach „Lluc“ (ausgesprochen „Jük“). Langsam wurden aus geraden Strassen Serpentinen und wir sahen erste Radsportler, die sich auf dem Weg nach oben auf den Berg quälten. Lluc ist ein Wallfahrtsort, ein musisches Internat und Dreh- und Angelpunkt im nördlichen Tramuntana Gebirge. Der schöne Trockensteinmauerweg „GR 221“ führt direkt an Lluc vorbei und wird deswegen auch in manchen Abschnitten als Pilgerweg bezeichnet. Wir fuhren weiter zum Paß „Coll dels Reis“, der den Wendepunkt zwischen Auf-und Abstieg im nördlichen Gebirge einläutet. Ein Eldorado für alle Rennradfans und auch Trainingsstrecke manch Tour de France Fahrer. Die Fahrt mit dem Auto ist ein kleiner Irrsinn, denn wer nicht reisetauglich ist, sollte sich wegen der Höhen und der dichten Kurven eine Reisetablette einwerfen.

Ein besonderer Moment war, als wir sahen wie Reisebusse aus „Sa Calobra“ in den engen Strassen der Serpentinen auf entgegen kommende Autos trafen. Man glaubt es kaum, aber diese Busfahrer sind wahre Helden und sehr geschickt mit dem Umgang ihrer ultra-massiven Vehikel. Ein Italiener namens Antonio Paretti entwarf diese kurvenreiche Strasse im Jahr 1932. Ein riesen Spektakel und unbedingt sehenswert. Besonders zu erwähnen ist der „Krawattenknoten“.  Hier führt die Strasse unter sich selbst durch. Verrückt!

Einige Kilometer später sind wir links abgebogen und landeten im Nirgendwo. Denn nach einer Stunde Serpentienenfahrt mitten im Tramuntana Gebirge, was seit 2011 zum UNESCO Weltkulturerbe gehört, waren wir auf dem Weg zur Bucht „Tuent“ und plötzlich wurde alles ganz ruhig um uns.

Ein neues Zuhause – zumindest für 7 Nächte

Unsere Vermieter, Aina und Francesco, haben das Haus selbst gebaut und darin gelebt bis ihr zweites Kind auf die Welt kam. Aina erzählte uns die abenteuerliche Geschichte, dass sie eines ihrer Kinder auf der Strasse von Sóller nach Palma geboren hatte, da es zu dieser Zeit noch keine Tunnelverbindung gab. Sie selbst kommt aus Fornalutx, einem Ort zwischen Cala Tuent und Sollér. Im Jahr 2017 haben sie angefangen ihr Haus zu vermieten. Ein Rückzugsort, so wie wir ihn uns vorstellten. Das Interieur war im 80er Jahre Stil. Die Küche war ausreichend ausgestattet und das Wlan war tiptop. Wir machten die erste Flasche „Prensal Blanc“ auf, tauchten die Beine in den Pool und schauten auf den maskulinen Gipfel names „Puig Major“.

Das Wetter zwischen den Bergen und der Bucht war für uns Städter keinen Regeln unterworfen und deswegen sehr faszinierend. Ein Naturschauspiel ist es, wenn sich die Wolken am Puig Major verhängen und unten in der Bucht der blaue Himmel bleibt. Überhaupt wirkt die Natur hier wie unberührt. An den Straßen wachsen Rosmarin, neben Zitronen, Chili, schönen Nadelbäumen und allerlei blühenden Sträuchern. Dazwischen findet ihr Palmen und Olivenbäume. Wildziegen sahen wir auch, als wir achtsamer wurden.

Bewegung muss her

Es gibt nicht viele Wanderwege in der unmittelbaren Umgebung von Cala Tuent. Einer jedoch ist der  Teilbereich des „Trockenmauerwegs“ von Sóller nach Sa Calobra. Dieser dauert circa 5 Stunden. Trockenmauern sind Mauern bei denen das Verlegen von Steinen, auf dem Boden und als seitliche Stütze, ohne Mörtel oder Zement geschieht. Wer ausgiebig wandern möchte, sollte sich ins Auto setzen und in Richtung Sollér fahren. Dort gibt es wunderschöne Routen rund um den Puig Major.

Einfach mal die Seele hin und her wedeln

Die Bucht von Tuent wird kaum besucht, denn es gibt keinen Hafen, keinen Souvenirladen, sondern nur einen kleinen Anlegesteg für die Fähre, die einmal pro Woche vorbei schaut. Der Sonnenuntergang an diesem Steg ist legendär und dazu gehört eine Flasche guter Wein und Freunde, mit denen man dieses Schauspiel genießen kann: Vorne Meer, hinten Mittelgebirge. Das hat etwas außergewöhnlich paradiesisches. Übrig bleibt lediglich das „Es Vergeret“ , als einziges Lokal. Hier ist die Aussicht spitze, der Service sehr nett und die Speisen sind in Ordnung. Das Restaurant hat jedoch nur mittags bis 16.30 Uhr Küche, dafür aber die ganze Woche bis 18.00 Uhr geöffnet.

Da es keine Busverbindung nach Cala Tuent gibt, kommt ihr mit den kommerziellen Verkehrsmitteln nur in die Nachbarbucht „Sa Calobra“. Ein kleiner Hafen, den die Fähre von Port de Sóller ansteuert und der hauptsächlich von Touristen genutzt wird. Wenn ihr euch an der Promenade rechts haltet (Norden), kommt ihr zu den berühmten „Torrent de Pareis“. Ein wahrlich imposantes Naturschauspiel.

Ein Ausflug bei Regen

Am Sonntag regnete es und wir fuhren unsere geliebte Serpentinenstrasse nordwärts nach „Pollença“. Vielleicht hatten wir einfach nur den falschen Zeitpunkt erwischt, aber uns kam dieses Städtchen sehr überlaufen vor. Wir rechneten nicht mit so vielen Menschen, die sich mitunter durch die kleinen Gassen pressten. An einem anderen Tag hätte es sich vielleicht nicht so voll angefühlt. Naiv waren wir und gestanden uns ein, dass wir auf dieser berühmten Ferieninsel damit rechnen durften, nicht die Einzigen zu sein. Also fuhren wir zurück, schauten uns das Kloster von Lluc an und freuten uns auf die kleine, ruhige Bucht unserer Homebase.

Von Einsiedlerkrebsen zum Großstadtgeflüster

Eine Woche hatten wir in Cala Tuent verbracht und fuhren nun gen Süden, auf der Strasse nach Palma. Wir passierten den Stausee „Gorg Blau“ und sahen auf dem Rücken des Tramontana Gebirges viele Wanderer, die den Tag in den Bergen verbringen wollten.

Die nächst größere Stadt auf unserem Weg bergab war „Sóller“. Ein altehrwürdiges Städtchen im Vall d´Or, dem Goldenen Tal. Hier wachsen 120.000 Zitrusbäume und die Olivenbäume gelten als Statussymbol in den einheimischen Gärten. Manche von ihnen sind über 100 Jahre alt. Ich habe mir ein Paar „Porqueras“ gekauft. Das sind traditionelle Schuhe, die auf Mallorca aus alten Gummireifen hergestellt sind. Sie sind sehr bequem und robust. Mit unserer Beute im Gepäck gingen wir zum zweiten Frühstück ins „Café Scholl“ und aßen im crazy-viktorianischen Ambiente. Das Café ist zu Recht das Coolste, was Sóller zu bieten hat.

Obwohl wir nicht die großen Kirchgänger sind, waren wir von der „Inglesias Sant Bartolomäu“ sehr begeistert. Die „Strassenbahn“, die von Sóller nach Port de Sóller fährt ( 7,00€ pro Fahrt) war schön, aber nicht nötig. Sie zu fotografieren reicht auch, da „Port de Sóller“ nur für die anlegenden Seefahrer eine Sehenswürdigkeit ist. Wir fühlten uns idiotisch, denn alles war überteuert und drittklassig. Wohingegen der „Placa Espagna“ in Sóller als Hot Spot im Dorfkern sehr achtbar ist. Wir saßen uns hin und tranken einen Kaffee, beobachteten die Menschen und freuten uns unseres Lebens.

Palma – Die selbstbewusste Stadt mit großem Tourismus Know How 

Da war sie endlich, diese berühmte Stadt mit den 400 000 Einwohnern, von der jeder Deutsche sein eigenes Bild hat. Nun durfte ich ran und mir meines machen, da ich das erste Mal in Palma war.

Wir kamen mit dem Auto aus Richtung  Sóller an. Untergebracht waren wir etwas südlich vom Stadtzentrum im „Catalonia“, einer Hotelkette, die wir schon aus Barcelona kannten. Die Terrasse und die Aussicht auf den Hafen sind wirklich legendär.

Vom vierten Stock des Hotels hatten wir einen sagenhaften Blick auf das offene Meer, in die Bucht von Palma und den Anlegeplatz der gewaltig-großen Ferienschiffe. Diese Schiffe waren so riesig, dass sie die Hochhäuser von Palma überragten. Das alles erschien erst einmal sehr fragwürdig.

Vier Nächte mieteten wir uns ein und liehen zwei Fahrräder aus. Das war eine geniale Idee. Das Angebot an Leih-Fahrräder ist enorm und es gibt genügend Fahrradwege und auch Fahrradstraßen in Palma. Für eine so lebendige Großstadt geht es verhältnismäßig entspannt auf den Straßen zu.

Hinein ins kulinarische Getümmel

Das alles entscheidende Viertel zum Ausgehen in dieser Stadt ist „Santa Catalina“. Zwischen der C de Sant Magi und der C de Puriana fanden wir nur schöne Restaurants und Bars. Diese Restaurants sind überwiegend von mallorquinischer, englischer, französischer, italienischer und skandinavischer Küche inspiriert. Die Tapas-Küche, die ihr vom Festland kennt, wird hier kaum angeboten. Und wenn, dann ist sie etwas stillos und rotzig. Die Wirte von Palma sind kreativ. Und diese Stadt kennt so viele ausländische Besucher, dass sie sich immer neu erfindet. Und wir nahmen es ihr auch ab! Die jungen Menschen wollen mit der Welt verschmelzen und sind dabei einen eigenen Stil aufbauen. Hier haben die Einwohner perfekt gelernt mit dem Tourismus zu leben und sind selbstbewusst und sehr freundlich. Das Hipster-Potenzial ist gering und macht diese Stadt noch schöner, ehrlicher und konkurrenzfähiger zu Städten wie Barcelona, Lissabon, Paris, Berlin,…

Vorab ist zu sagen, dass wir überall zuvorkommend, freundlich und schnell bewirtet wurden – hier hat die Dienstleistung einen hohen Stellenwert. Wir stolperten zufällig ins „Nola“. Streng nach dem Motto „New Orleans trifft Palma“ wurden wir mit kreolischer Kochkunst in einem coolen Ambiente verwöhnt.

Wir trieben uns weiter in Santa Catalina rum und endeckten ein Frühstückscafé der besonderen Art. Das „El Perrito“ ist auf den Hund gekommen, denn das außergewöhnliche ist, dass an den Wänden die Porträtaufnahmen der Gäste-Hunde hängen.

Leider sahen wir die „Prominenz“ an Hunden nicht vor Ort. Wohingegen das Frühstück ausgesprochen abwechslungsreich und gut war.

Apropos Frühstück – folgender Tip ist für einen Zwischensnack geeignet: Zufällig entdeckten wir die Bäckerei vom Österreicher Thomas Grasberger. Seine libanesische Frau und er betreiben die „Thomas Bakeshop Boutique“. Über den Namen lässt sich streiten, demgegenüber steht jedoch die wunderbare Kunst des Bäckers und Konditors. Feinste Brote, saftige und buttrige Croissants und eine der besten Brezn, die ich je gegessen habe.

Besonders und exklusiv wurde es im Sterne-Restaurant von „Marc Fosh“. Wir waren gleich zwei Mal hier! Zum einen war das Essen sehr gut und zum anderen bietet das Restaurant jeden Tag und um die Mittagszeit ein Fünfgangmenü für 39,50€ an. Nun saßen wir im Zug der Dekadenz und reisten mit einer Mordsgeschwindigkeit in Richtung Nachmittagsrausch. Die Weinkarte bietet überwiegend spanische Weine an. Dazu gab es nebenan im  Hotel „Convent de la Missió“ eine wunderbare Bar, an der wir dann auch hängen geblieben sind…

Erwähnenswert ist, dass das Haus aus dem 17. Jahrhundert stammt. Wie konnte es auch anders sein, als das es damals der Speisesaal eines Klosters war. So eine Location muss man erstmal finden, um ein Restaurant und ein Hotel auf zu ziehen.

Am nächsten Tag standen wir ziemlich verkatert auf und machten uns auf an die frische Luft. Wir fuhren in Richtung Ballermann und Flughafen auf dem Radl-High-Way von Palma. Und es tat so gut!

Immer am Meer entlang fanden wir lauter kleine Buchten und große Strände. Die Strecke kann man endlos fahren. Für uns war aber nach 10 km Schluss und wir fuhren wieder zurück und nahmen einen kleinen Nachmittagsschlaf zu uns.

Am Abend machten wir uns auf die Suche nach gesundem Essen und kamen per Zufall am „Izakaya“ vorbei. Erstaunlicherweise waren wir die einzigen Touristen.

Die Atmosphäre war lässig und das Essen hervorragend. Das Restaurant wurde bis dato in keinem Reiseführer erwähnt und wir waren froh, endlich auf einen kleinen Geheimtipp zu stoßen. Dann aßen wie sehr delikat, tranken Sake und gingen beseelt ins Hotel zurück.

Wir checkten aus, hatten ausreichend Zeit, um uns im Stadtzentrum rum zu treiben und sprangen direkt in das Touristengewusel rund um die wunderschöne „Catedral“. Besonders beindruckte uns die Hauptniederlassung der Stiftung „Bartolomé March“. Diese originelle Kunstgallerie wurde auf dem Gemüse- und Obstgarten eines Dominikanerklosters erbaut. Im Rahmen der Säkularisierung wurde das Kloster 1835 abgerissen. Wir fanden moderne Skulpturen vor Gebäuden, die im nüchternen „Herreriano-Stil“ gebaut wurden. Anspruchsvolle Kontraste taten sich auf. Hier waren wir ganz unter uns und konnten genießen. Der Ausblick von der Terrasse und die Ruhe auf dem großen „Balkon“ waren umwerfend.

Weil es kommt wie es kommen musste, fuhren wir mit dem Taxi zum Flughafen und hauchten ein leises:“ ¡Hasta la vista! liebes Palma de Mallorca. Wir kommen wieder, um zu schauen, ob du dich wieder so cool gibst, wie du es uns zeigtest. Wehre dich auch weiterhin so wacker gegen die Ballermann Touristen. Wir waren sehr stolz mit dir-auf dich- und hatten einen außergewöhnlichen Urlaub“.

 

3.167 Gedanken zu „Mallorca“

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