Völs am Schlern

„Schönes Land, böse Leut“. Seit Claus Gatterer dieses Buch im Jahr 1969 veröffentlichte, wurden viele, bereits bestehende Strukturen gelöst und neu zusammengesetzt. Im Hier und Jetzt ist das „Alto Adige“ eine selbstbewusste und fortschrittliche Region im Norden Italiens.

Mein allererstes Mal war ein Neujahrstag im Jahre 2009

Aufgrund der vor nächtlichen Feierei war ich, als wir mittags aus München los fuhren, etwas zerschlagen . Es ging in Richtung „Völs am Schlern“ und ich hatte keine Vorstellung, was auf mich zu kommt. In Wirklichkeit hatte ich nach dieser Silvesternacht auch keine Lust, mir um ein verschlafenes Dorf in den Dolomiten Gedanken zu machen. Ich dachte kurz daran, dass es sich nicht schlecht anhört, wenn „man mal zwei, drei Tage in Südtirol“ verbringt und vielleicht wollte ich mich auch von den anstrengenden Weihnachtstagen auskurieren.

Wir waren zu einer ungezwungenen Runde mit zwei Winzern eingeladen, die sich mit ihrem Weinhändler zum Skifahren verabredet hatten und etwas Öffentlichkeitsarbeit machen wollten. An dieser Stelle begann der Urlaub: Denn wo Winzer, da auch Wein.

Die Jordans aus Stellebosch, SüdafrikaGumphof und Jordan Winery

In „Bozen Nord“ fuhren wir raus und schleppten uns parallel zum „Eisack-Lauf“ an der SS12 und später auf der SP24 16 km die Serpentinen bergauf. Im Tunnel von Blumau müsst ihr euch links halten und Richtung „Schlerngebiet“ fahren, dass geht recht schnell und kommt unerwartet. Darüber hinaus dürft ihr mit Einheimischen rechnen, die die Strecke aus dem Effeff beherrschen und unbeabsichtigt von hinten Druck aufbauen: Geduldig bleiben, denn ihr seid im Urlaub und die anderen dürfen arbeiten und haben nicht vor, euch zu quälen. Solange ihr euch dicht am rechten Rand haltet wird auch nichts passieren und bis auf den Fahrer können alle die herrliche Landschaft genießen.

Schloss PröselsSchlernbödele

Die 700 Höhenmeter von Bozen nach „Völs am Schlern“ lohnen sich. Vorbei an Weinbergen von „Markus Prackwieser“ und „Otmar Mair“. Am wunderschönen „Schloss Prösels“, wo alljährlich die schmuckvollsten Hochzeiten und feuchtfröhlichsten Feste stattfinden: Vorzeigebeispiel ist das „Schlern International Music Festival“ im Juli, aber auch Partys wie 2015 mit den Münchener DJs, die „Zenker Brothers“. Wenn ihr später im Schlerngebiet Fuß gefasst habt, könnt ihr zu jeder Jahreszeit einen schönen Spaziergang zwischen Völs und dem Schloss gehen, wo die komischsten Tiere auf Euch warten und ihr an urigen Bauernhöfen vorbei kommt.

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Nun ist es nicht mehr weit und auf der „Bozener Straße“ trefft ihr Völs ein. Am Kreisverkehr angekommen fahrt ihr links in das historische Zentrum. Zur Hauptsaison im August oder Januar seht ihr schon geschäftiges Treiben auf den Dorfstraßen. Die Einheimischen und Touristen machen sich im Winter zur „Seiser Alm“ auf oder genießen die Sommerfrische mit Wanderungen auf die nah gelegenen Almen. Für den Fall, dass ihr nicht von Schulferien abhängig seid, empfehle ich euch für den Urlaub die Monate Februar bis Juni oder Oktober bis Anfang Dezember. An den langen Wochenenden ist so oder so viel los, da süddeutsche Touristen die Chance nutzen, um schnell von zu Hause weg zu kommen. Denn wer schnell ist, fährt von München bis Völs 3,5 Stunden. Apropos schnell: Wenn ihr an die Maut-Stelle am Brenner heran fahrt, haltet euch ganz links, zwischen Video Maut und ersten Häuschen und benutzt die Kreditkarten-Bezahl-Möglichkeit. Da ist kaum was los und ihr seid viel schneller, als am Häuschen.

Übernachten in Völs

In diesem so hinreißenden Dorf angekommen gibt es viele Wege, um an eine schöne Schlafstätte zu kommen. Fast jedes Haus bietet ein Bed and Breakfast oder Ferienwohnung an, aber nicht jeder ist ein guter Wirt.

Für einen längeren Urlaub lege ich euch die frisch renovierten Ferienwohnungen vom „Hotel Hubertus“ ans Herz: Daniela ist die Gastgeberin und verwöhnt euch, wo es nur geht. Die Lage ist fabelhaft und wenn das Wetter schlecht ist, freut man sich auf ein selbstgemachtes Essen und einer runde Kniffel, in ruhiger und doch zentraler Lage. Für einen kurzen Aufenthalt schlaft ihr im „Albergo Kreuzwirt“, direkt am Dorfplatz. Eine unkomplizierte und durch Patricia und Pepe sehr charmant geführte italienische Herberge alter Couleur. In jedem Fall, sollte man sich im Kreuzwirt einen Espresso und holen und auf der Terrasse vor dem Haus dem quirligen Treiben zu schauen. Mit hoher Wahrscheinlichkeit wird euch „Leopold“ über den Weg laufen. Dieser kleine, glückliche Mann spaziert tagein, tagaus durchs Dorf. Falls ihr Lust auf einen Rasch habt, wird er euch erzählen, was ihr wissen möchtet und erfreut sich an der Aufmerksamkeit seiner Person.

Blick auf den RosengartenSchlern

Eine weitere eindrucksvolle Erfahrung macht ihr auf der Terrasse vom „Hotel Turm“, mit dem Blick auf das „Schlern-Massiv“. Hier beginnt man den Abend mit einem Glas guten Weißwein aus der Region und bestaunt die Kunst im Hotel. Insofern das Wetter mitspielt, gibt es im Winter sogar eine selbstgebaute Eisbar. Nach dem Aperitif geht es zu „Bimpi“ in die „Binderstube“. Seine Frau macht die besten Nudeln und er und seine Töchter servieren euch die feinsten Tropfen Wein und Schnaps. Das Lokal ist erst vor ein paar Jahren renoviert worden und spiegelt die Kunst, stilsicher und topaktuell mit Holz zu bauen, perfekt wider. Ihr bevorzugt die rustikale Variante, dann ist Paulo euer Pizza-Dealer Nummer 1. Sein kleines Lokal befindet sich gleich am Ortseingang von Völs, auf der Bozener Straße. Im Sommer rate ich euch im Biergarten unter der Laube Plätze zu reservieren und ein Rosenheimer Bier zu trinken. Ein schönes Café mit leckeren Kuchen und dem besten italienischem Frühstück, findet ihr am großen Kreisverkehr. Das ist die „Bar Flora“: dieser Familienbetrieb macht alle Kuchen selber, manierliche Eis Variationen und Kaffeespezialitäten von „Caroma“ gibt es zuhauf. Da wir gerade bei Kaffee sind. Völs versucht autark zu bleiben und hat neben „Antonius“ Bier auch eine eigene Kaffee Rösterei. Wie ihr seht: Die zwei Grundnahrungsmittel wären im Falle einer Notlage gesichert. Bravo!

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Die besten Schmankerl

Direkt am Dorfplatz findet ihr den Krämerladen vom wunderbaren Rainer Delago und seiner Mama. Ein originalgetreuer und überaus charmanter Platz. Hier findet man alles, was das Herz begehrt. Nicht vergessen: Bevor ihr eine Wanderung startet, solltet ihr hier euren Proviant besorgen. Obst und Gemüse bezieht ihr bei der „Landwirtschaftlichen Bezugsgenossenschaft“, gleich neben der Bar Flora. Und eine große Auswahl an Fleisch -und Wurstwaren hat die „Familie Pramstrahler“ am Dorfplatz. Wie ihr seht, könnte eine Unterkunft mit Selbstversorgung in dieser Gegend richtig viel Spaß machen, da die meisten Produkte aus der Region kommen und sehr hochwertig sind.

ZeichenIMG-20160704-WA001

Die Seele baumeln lassen

Mit gutem Essen und guten Geschichten kann man mich auf jeden Berg locken. So geschah es auch beim Aufstieg auf den „Tschafon„. Oben angekommen gab es die beste Käse-Sahne-Torte und das beste Brennessel-Omlette, welches ich mir je erträumt hatte. Der Aufstieg über die Nordseite ist kurz und etwas knackig, aber durchaus auch für ungeübte Urlauber machbar. Selbst mein von mir so geliebter, jedoch unsportlicher Onkel, hat die Tour zur Hütten mit Bravour in 1,15h gewandert. Respekt nochmal an dieser Stelle. Eine wahre Wonne ist, oben angekommen, die Aussicht auf den Rosengarten mit der berühmten Vajolet-Spitze. Indes ist der Abstieg das Beste an der Tour: Über den „Wunleger“, wir sagen „Wunderwiese“ dazu, wo ihr das beste Panoramabild machen könnt, bis hin zu schönen Weiden mit „Kuh-Kontakt“ und Waldwegen. An dieser Stelle werden die wahren „Profilbilder“ gemacht.

WunlegerIMG-20160703-WA000

Veranstaltungen rund ums Jahr

Oscar von Wolkenstein, Kuchlkastl im Oktober, Bergtafeln unterm Rosengarten, Almabtrieb, Törggelen, Schlittenfahrt von der Tuffalm, Eisstockschießen

 

P.S. Mir fällt es sehr schwer, konkret alles aufzulisten, was ich in Völs kenne. Nun bin ich schon seid fast zehn Jahren hier. Deswegen bitte ich euch, etwas Geduld zu haben, wie ich die besten Informationen für euch filtere und nieder schreibe. Danke!

Es geht bald weiter!

 

 

 

 

 

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